Men’s Skin Care: Shaving,
Razor Bumps, Acne, and Skin Cancer

Men’s skin is thicker, oilier, and shaved several times a week, and men are less likely than women to use sunscreen or see a dermatologist. The result is a predictable set of problems: razor bumps and ingrown hairs, adult and body acne, excessive sweating, hair loss, and skin cancers found later than they should be. Most of these have simple fixes. The biggest single improvement for most men is how they shave: on fully wet hair, with a brush-built lather, with a single-blade safety razor, with the grain, and without chasing a baby-smooth finish. Belaray Dermatology treats men’s skin at its Hicksville and Stony Brook offices.

How Should Men Shave to Avoid Razor Bumps?

Razor bumps (pseudofolliculitis barbae) and razor burn come from cutting hair too close and too aggressively. A hair cut below the skin surface, or a curly hair cut at a sharp angle, curls back and re-enters the skin, and the body treats it as a foreign object: a red, tender, sometimes pus-filled bump that heals with a dark mark. The method below prevents most of it. It is the approach our physicians recommend to patients.

1. Shave in the Shower, on Fully Wet Hair

Beard hair that has soaked in warm water for three minutes or more absorbs water, swells, and becomes markedly softer and easier to cut, so the blade needs less pressure and makes a cleaner cut. The simplest way to guarantee this is to shave in the shower at the end, using a fog-free shower mirror. If you shave at the sink, do it right after the shower while the skin is still warm and wet.

2. Lubricate Properly, Ideally With a Brush

The blade should glide on a cushion of lather, not on bare skin. A shaving cream or shaving soap worked into a lather with a badger-hair brush (or a good synthetic brush) does two things a squirt of gel from a can cannot: it lifts the hairs away from the skin and it coats every hair in lubricant, including the hairs under the jaw and on the neck that cause the most trouble. Thirty seconds of brushing in circles is enough. Leave the lather on for a minute before the first stroke.

3. Use a Single-Blade Safety Razor, Not a Multi-Blade Cartridge

We discourage multi-blade cartridge razors (the three-, four-, and five-blade designs). Their first blade is designed to grip and lift each hair so the following blades can cut it below the skin surface. That is exactly the mechanism that produces ingrown hairs and razor bumps, and because cartridges are expensive, men tend to keep dull ones far too long, which adds irritation. A traditional single-blade safety razor cuts each hair once, at the surface, with one sharp edge.

Our physicians favor an adjustable stainless steel razor such as the Rockwell 6S, for three reasons:

• Adjustable settings. The 6S has six blade-gap settings. Men who get razor bumps should start on the mildest setting and move up only if needed. Most never need to.
• Inexpensive blades. It takes standard double-edge blades that cost pennies each, so a fresh, sharp blade every few shaves is affordable, and a sharp blade is gentler than a dull one.
• Lifetime construction. It is machined from solid stainless steel with no plating to wear off and no moving parts to break. Bought once, it lasts for decades.

Belaray has no relationship with Rockwell Razors. The product link above is an Amazon affiliate link; as an Amazon Associate, Belaray Dermatology earns from qualifying purchases. Any well-made single-blade safety razor works the same way.

4. Shave With the Grain, With No Pressure

Beard hair grows in a direction that varies across the face and especially on the neck. Shave with the grain, in the direction the hair grows, using short, light strokes and letting the weight of the razor do the work. Do not stretch the skin, which pulls hairs up so they are cut too short, and do not press. Rinse the blade every few strokes. If you want it closer, a second pass across the grain with fresh lather is acceptable; a pass against the grain is where most razor bumps begin.

5. After the Shave

Rinse with cool water, pat dry, and apply a fragrance-free, alcohol-free moisturizer or aftershave balm. Alcohol-based aftershaves sting because they are irritating the skin you just exfoliated. In the morning, a moisturizer with SPF 30 does double duty.

Shaving Checklist

• Shave in or right after a warm shower, with a fog-free mirror.
• Build a lather with a brush and leave it on for a minute.
• Use a single-blade safety razor on its mildest setting; change the blade every few shaves.
• With the grain only, light strokes, no pressure, no stretching the skin.
• Stop at close enough. Do not chase baby smooth.
• Cool rinse, then a fragrance-free, alcohol-free balm.
• Never shave over active bumps; wait two to three days and let the hairs grow out.

What If I Still Get Razor Bumps?

If bumps persist after changing technique, a dermatologist can help:

• Let the hairs out. Stop shaving for a few days so trapped hairs grow long enough to release. Do not dig at them.
• Topical treatment. A nightly retinoid (adapalene or tretinoin) keeps follicles open and fades dark marks; a benzoyl peroxide or glycolic acid wash reduces bacteria and bumps; a short course of a mild topical steroid or antibiotic calms a flare.
• Laser hair reduction is the definitive treatment for men who cannot shave without bumps. A series of sessions permanently thins the beard in the affected area so the hairs that remain are too fine to re-enter the skin. Belaray offers GentleLase laser hair reduction at the Hicksville office, with settings chosen for your skin tone. Razor bumps are especially common in Black men with tightly curled hair; see dermatology for skin of color.

A Simple Daily Routine for Men

Three products are enough for most men. Consistency beats complexity.

• Morning: rinse or wash with a gentle cleanser, then a moisturizer with broad-spectrum SPF 30 on the face, ears, and neck. If your hairline is receding, the scalp too.
• Evening: wash to remove the day’s oil and sunscreen, then a moisturizer. Men prone to acne, razor bumps, or sun damage benefit from an over-the-counter adapalene gel at night, starting three nights a week.
• Skip: harsh scrubs, bar soap on the face, and alcohol-based aftershaves, which strip oil and trigger more oil and irritation.

Acne in Men

Men produce more oil than women and are more prone to acne on the chest, shoulders, and back, where sweat and friction from gym clothing and backpacks make it worse. Shower promptly after exercise, use a benzoyl peroxide wash on the body, wash gym clothes after every use, and do not pick. Testosterone and anabolic steroid supplements can cause severe acne. Breakouts that are deep, scarring, or not improving after two to three months respond well to prescription treatment. See acne treatment and, for itchy uniform bumps on the chest and back, the fungal acne section of adult acne.

Sweating, Odor, and Fungal Rashes

Excessive sweating of the underarms, hands, or feet is a medical condition called hyperhidrosis, and it is treatable with clinical antiperspirants, prescription wipes, iontophoresis, and Botox; see hyperhidrosis treatment. Moist skin folds and feet also breed fungus: jock itch (an itchy, scaly, spreading rash in the groin) and athlete’s foot respond to over-the-counter antifungal creams used for two to four weeks, along with dry socks, breathable fabrics, and alternating shoes. A rash that does not clear, or that has a scaly ring-shaped edge, should be examined.

Hair Loss

Half of men have noticeable pattern hair loss by age 50. It is easiest to slow early, with topical or oral minoxidil, finasteride, and platelet-rich plasma as an add-on. Sudden shedding, patches, or an itchy or scaly scalp have other causes and other treatments. See hair loss: causes and treatment and dandruff vs. scalp psoriasis.

Skin Cancer: Why Men Should Get Checked

Men over 50 have a higher rate of melanoma than women, and men are more likely to die of it, largely because their melanomas are found later. Men spend more time outdoors for work and sport, use less sunscreen, and rarely examine their own backs, where men’s melanomas most often appear. The fix is simple: sunscreen on the face, ears, neck, and scalp every morning, a hat outdoors, a monthly look at your own skin with a partner checking your back, and a full-body skin exam once a year. See how to check for skin cancer, the sunscreen guide, and skin cancer screening. Belaray performs about 2,200 Mohs surgeries a year for skin cancer, nearly two-thirds of them on the head and neck.

When Should a Man See a Dermatologist?

• Razor bumps or ingrown hairs that persist after changing how you shave.
• A mole or spot that is new, changing, bleeding, or not healing, anywhere on the body, including the back and scalp.
• Acne that is deep, scarring, or not improving after two to three months.
• Sweating that soaks through shirts or interferes with work.
• Hair thinning you want to slow, or a scalp that is itchy, scaly, or sore.
• A groin or foot rash that has not cleared with an antifungal cream.
• You have never had a full-body skin exam and are over 40, work outdoors, or have fair skin or a family history of skin cancer.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get rid of razor bumps?

Change how you shave: on fully wet hair after a warm shower, with a brush-built lather, using a single-blade safety razor on a mild setting, with the grain only, with no pressure, and stopping at close enough rather than baby smooth. Let existing bumps heal by not shaving for two to three days. A nightly retinoid and a benzoyl peroxide or glycolic acid wash help, and laser hair reduction is the definitive treatment for men who get bumps no matter how they shave.

Is a safety razor better than a cartridge razor for razor bumps?

Yes, for most men. Multi-blade cartridges lift each hair and cut it below the skin surface, which is the mechanism that creates ingrown hairs and razor bumps. A single-blade safety razor cuts each hair once at the surface. An adjustable model lets men who are prone to bumps use the mildest setting, and because the blades cost pennies, a fresh sharp blade every few shaves is affordable, and sharp blades are gentler than dull ones.

Should I shave with or against the grain?

With the grain, in the direction the hair grows, using light strokes and no pressure. Shaving against the grain cuts hair below the surface and is where most razor bumps and ingrown hairs begin. If you want a closer shave, a second pass across the grain with fresh lather is acceptable. Beard direction changes across the face and neck, so take a moment to learn yours.

How often should I change my razor blade?

Every few shaves. A dull blade drags, needs more pressure, and causes razor burn and nicks. Double-edge blades for a safety razor cost pennies each, so there is no reason to stretch them. Rinse the razor after each shave and let it dry to keep the blade sharp longer.

Do men need a skincare routine?

A short one. A gentle cleanser, a morning moisturizer with SPF 30, and a plain moisturizer at night cover most needs. Men prone to acne, razor bumps, or sun damage benefit from an over-the-counter adapalene gel a few nights a week. Skip harsh scrubs, bar soap on the face, and alcohol-based aftershaves, which strip oil and cause more irritation.

Do men really need sunscreen every day?

Yes. Men over 50 have a higher rate of melanoma than women and are more likely to die of it, and men use far less sunscreen. A broad-spectrum SPF 30 on the face, ears, neck, and any exposed scalp every morning, plus a hat outdoors, is the most effective habit for preventing skin cancer and aging. Sunscreen with SPF 15 or higher is an eligible FSA and HSA expense.

Does laser hair removal work for razor bumps?

Yes. Laser hair reduction is the most effective long-term treatment for pseudofolliculitis barbae. A series of sessions permanently thins the beard in the affected area so the remaining hairs are too fine to curl back into the skin. It is safe in darker skin tones with the right laser and settings. Belaray offers GentleLase laser hair reduction at its Hicksville office.

Related reading: hyperhidrosis treatment, hair loss, acne treatment, dermatology for skin of color, the sunscreen guide, and the patient education hub.